Here are some of the commonly asked questions we've received over the years.
We've organized them by category so you can easily find answers.

ISSUE: Extreme Breakage

March 15, 2009 | Damaged Hair, Dry Hair, Thin Hair

Dear Philip,

My hair used to be thick and healthy. Now it’s thin, brittle and broken starting about 3 inches from the root. I attribute this to using a flat iron set on 400 degrees for six years now. The sides of my hair don’t grow at all and are filled with split, frayed ends. I’d like to not have to use the flat iron but if I don’t, my hair is so fried and frizzy I couldn’t possibly go out in public!

First off, you need to turn down the heat. I set my flat iron at 160-180; 400 degrees is way over the top – you’re literally frying your hair. I’d prefer that you blow your hair out with a paddle brush or Mason Pearson-type brush, and then go over the hair in sections with a small barrel curling iron. (Glide it from from roots to ends and smooth out the hair with your hands as you go). You’ll get a straight finish with a nice little bend – and all for a fraction of the heat damage you’re currently inflicting on your dry strands.

As for daily care, someone with your degree of breakage needs an ultra-nourishing, restructuring cleanser like Russian Amber Imperial Shampoo (or White Truffle Moisturizing Shampoo) and the White Truffle Nourishing Hair Conditioner. I also recommend a weekly Katira Masque to fill in broken areas of the cuticle with light, oil-free moisture, lending you a smooth texture that never feels greasy. And Lovin’ Leave-In Conditioner would make a nice finishing – and healing – touch that you can use day or night. The bottom line? If you want to have fantastic, long, goddess hair again, soap and water won’t cut it. You need to feed your hair to bring it back to life.

ISSUE: Thin, Fine Ethnic Hair

March 15, 2009 | African-American Hair, Curly Hair, Fine & Limp Hair, Thin Hair

Dear Philip,

What products are best for my thin, fine, curly, black hair? I’ve been using Samy Big Curls Curl Defining Creme. It works pretty well, but I’m over 50 now and would like more volume and curl definition.

It’s not always about the finishing product. Your situation is a case in point: Volume and defined curls start at the roots and with the condition of the hair itself. First, please give it a strong foundation with weekly deep conditioning – a Rejuvenating Oil treatment followed by the Katira Masque. That combination will make all the difference. And finish your hair by putting a leave-in conditioning cream like Lovin’ Leave-In on the ends. Alternately, try Anti-Frizz Formula 57: Rub 2-3 pumps of it between your palms, work it through wet hair, and let it air-dry. Your curls will look soft, bouncy and shiny – in other words, naturally gorgeous.

ISSUE: Dryness and Frizz

March 15, 2009 | Dry Hair

Dear Philip,

My hair is dry and damaged and always in a frizzy state. Which products do you recommend for a guy like me?

Katira Masque all the way. It’s great for killing frizz. I’d use it like a hair gel. Your hair will stay slicked back all day - and later, when you rinse it out, you’ll find that the texture is suddenly incredibly soft and manageable. (If you want a gel with a softer hold, mix the Katira with a touch of the Lovin’ Leave-In.) No frizz, no fuss.

ISSUE: Thick, Prematurely Gray Hair That’s Thinning

March 15, 2009 | Color-Treated Hair, Damaged Hair, Special Cases, Thin Hair

Dear Philip,

I’m a 32-year-old Polish American woman with long, ash-brown hair that’s curly and very, very thick. I don’t blow dry it or use any styling products. Nevertheless, in the last year or two, I’ve noticed that while my hair is still thick, the top is thinning in a few places. Also, I’ve had my hair colored in expensive salons, and after the last trip I’m seeing what looks like gray cowlicks, like the hair broke off or something. I’ve very concerned and so is my panicked mother. (She says that I have no reason to have thinning hair or gray hair – all the women in my family gray at 50.) Whatever. I need an exact product prescription, before the family drama kicks in at the next Polish wedding. I’m lean and healthy and have been checked for hormonal imbalances. I don’t take any medications. Help, help, help. Also, should I stop coloring my hair for now?

Ring the alarm for Hair 911. We have two issues here. One is the health of your hair. I’d get a second opinion from a dermatologist and/or endocrinologist, just to make sure there’s nothing going on internally. If not, you might want to look into using Rogaine, an over-the-counter, topical hair-loss treatment that can be very effective when used consistently. My Peppermint & Avocado Shampoo is a very good scalp stimulator - I’d get that for your regular shampoo. And proper brushing - with a boar-bristle brush, from roots to ends – can help, too. The second issue is addressing your breakage. That means Rejuvenating Oil Treatments and the Katira Masque: Both of those will help to replenish your hair’s moisture levels from the inside out, leaving each strand shinier, stronger and more resilient. Finally, I’d recommend a nourishing conditioner like the White Truffle Conditioner. For now, stick to single-process color with built-in conditioners; your colorist should be able to steer you to the gentlest formula. And let me know how it goes. I’m rooting for you.

ISSUE: Anti-Flake Shampoo & Breastfeeding

March 15, 2009 | Special Cases

Dear Philip,

Can I use the Anti-Flake Relief Shampoo whilst breast-feeding?

It’s designed to be safe for everyone, but check with your doctor. (As wonderful as it is, Anti-Flake is a medical treatment, so it pays to be extra cautious.) I’d start with another great option: The Four Step Hair & Scalp Treatment. It’s perfectly safe and a surefire way to clear away dandruff and itchiness. The healing, therapeutic levels of pure peppermint extract in the formula act like a natural antiseptic. After just one treatment, your scalp will feel tingly-clean, cool and refreshed. A final word of advice: Be sure to use the Peppermint & Avocado Shampoo in the kit every day until you have the problem under control. Unless you have a very severe case of dandruff, it shouldn’t take more than a week.

ISSUE: No Time for an Oil Treatment

March 15, 2009 | Dry Hair

Dear Philip,

I bought the Rejuvenating Oil and want to know how often I’m supposed to use it. I typically don’t have enough time before work in the morning to apply the oil and let it sit for 30 minutes. Probably two or three times a week I get up to run for 30 – 40 minutes before I get in the shower. Can I apply the oil before I go running? Or will sweating not be good for the process? (I have long hair that is non-chemically treated and is fairly healthy, just a little dry.)

I’m in the same boat: I have natural, healthy hair that occasionally gets a little dry because of the length – and not a lot of time to spend on it in the morning. So I always run a little bit of the Rejuvenating Oil through my hair before my morning workout. (Adding perspiration and body heat just intensives the treatment.) When you get home, take some shampoo in your hands and run it through your hair dry; then get in the shower and work in some water and rinse it out. A Katira Masque would be great for you, too. Take some time on a weekend to do the full treatment. Then you can cruise for a month.

ISSUE: Damaged, Fried and Frizzy

March 15, 2009 | Damaged Hair, Dry Hair

Dear Philip,

About 7 months ago, my hair left me under the dryer for what I think was too long. Since then, my bangs look fried. I have blonde hair, so I’m sure the bleaching and processing doesn’t help. I’ve stopped using my flat iron but my hair in this one spot is still very damaged - frizzy, fried and crinkly. Do you think the Katira masque is the product I should try first?

You sound like the perfect candidate for a Rejuvenating Oil treatment and a Katira Masque. I’d use them back to back: Apply the oil to your hair, concentrating on damaged areas and ends, and heat it up with a blowdryer so that the oil really soaks in. Next, shampoo your hair, towel it dry, and work in a generous dollop of Katira Masque from roots to ends. For best results, wear the masque all night and rinse it out the next morning. Odds are, you’ll be writing me a thank-you note: Your hair will be transformed!

ISSUE: Black Hair - Relaxed or Natural

March 15, 2009 | African-American Hair, Special Cases

Dear Philip,

I’d just like to know if your products work well on black hair - relaxed or natural?

Good news: All of my treatments are designed – first and foremost - to nurture and heal, so they’re ideal for black hair. In fact, I get thank-you letters from women of color from around the world. Ethnic hair tends to be very fragile, coarse and porous, so it needs that much more TLC. Treatments with the Rejuvenating Oil and Katira Masque are a must; the African Shea Butter or White Truffle shampoos and conditioners will make a perfect complement. (The Russian Amber Imperial Shampoo would be wonderful, too, especially if you have ultra-delicate hair that’s been relaxed and needs some restructuring.) All of these products are superhydrating and nourishing, so they’ll give your hair back its naturally healthy shine and bounce.

ISSUE: Shin Shine

March 15, 2009 | Thin Hair

Dear Philip,

I have a question about my recently purchased Shin Shine. I bought it as a pure shine spray, but it just makes my hair limp and look like it has a plastic coating on top… hair that can only be described as Wig Hair! I have fine, cropped, choppy hair with a lot of texture. Am I using the product the right way, or should I do something else with it instead of spraying it straight onto my hair after styling?

Don’t ever spray Shin Shine directly onto dry hair. The effect will be much more flattering if you mist a cloud above your hair, shake your head beneath it, and then work the product through with your fingers. (My clients call this the Shin Shine Shake.) If that doesn’t work for you, please send back the product and ask for Shinade Pomade instead. It’s wonderful for creating that choppy, sexy look. Plus, it has a water-base, so it’s very light.

ISSUE: Dandruff

March 15, 2009 | Dry Hair, Special Cases

Dear Philip,

I would like to order the Anti-Flake shampoo, but have some questions: Is it gentle enough to use every day; and which conditioner should I use with it? I have long, colored hair that is dry.

Anti-Flake is wonderfully conditioning and gentle enough to use everyday: It contains 7% pure aloe extract to leave your hair bouncy and silky. That said, I don’t think you’d need to use it that often. If you have an extreme flare-up of dandruff, I’d start with the Peppermint & Avocado Shampoo to clarify and detox your scalp, followed by the Anti-Flake. (Leave each on a few minutes before you rinse, so that the healing ingredients have a chance to do their work.)

From there, you’ll probably only need to use the Anti-Flake every three days; if you shampoo more often, use the Peppermint Shampoo in between. As for conditioning, I recommend that you use the White Truffle Conditioner, focusing on the middle to lower half of your hair. And for extra shine and smoothness, run a little Rejuvenating Oil through your hair and heat it with a blow-dryer (that helps it penetrate) before you shampoo.

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