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ASK PHILIP B.

ISSUE: Thin Hair

December 31, 2008 | Special Cases, Thin Hair

Dear Philip,

I’m a 27-year old mother of four and have androgenic alopecia. My hair is very thin and just keeps getting thinner. Will you be making anything that will regrow hair or make hair thicker?

I assume you’re under a dermatologist’s care. Androgenic alopecia is tricky. The leading dermatologist I work with - Los Angeles’s Dr. Ava Shamban - says that the first thing you should do is get your hormones checked. If there’s no clear hormonal imbalance behind your hair loss, consider trying Rogaine for Women. It contains 2% minoxidil, the highest percentage approved by the FDA for women. (Depending on the severity of your problem, you might want to ask your doctor about stepping up to Extra-Strength Rogaine for Men, which contains 5% minoxidil.) A Four-Step Hair & Scalp Facial Treatment would be good for you, too. After the oil and shampooing steps, just be sure to apply the conditioning cream rinse and pH Balancing Mist to the hair only (not your scalp). Towel dry and apply the Rogaine to thinning areas. You’ll have to do this twice a day, morning and night, and hang in there: It usually takes 3-6 months to see results, and that’s with conscientious and continuous use.

ISSUE: Keratosis Pilaris

December 10, 2008 | Special Cases

Dear Philip,

For years, I’ve suffered from keratosis pilaris – also known as bumpy “chicken skin” – on my upper arms. I’ve been to dermatologists and used many lotions and treatments, but nothing worked until I got a sample of your Cucumber & Orchid Hand & Body Crème, which came inside a box of your other wonderful products that I ordered for my hair. I used the lotion all over and was surprised to notice a couple of days later that my bumps were gone! I read that 40% of the adult population suffers from this condition. I am going to tell everyone I know about your products. You are a miracle worker! I’ve already placed another order and will continue to try all that you have to offer. Have you considered creating some facial-care products? I have no doubt they’d be the best on the market.

Wow. Thank you very much! We all appreciate finding successful results with a product. Figuring out the right formula for your body can be such a journey. I’ve been lucky enough to collaborate with well-known L.A. dermatologist Ava Shamban, M.D., for eight years now. Studying scalp health has led me to learn a great deal about skin on the rest of the body, too. I choose all of my botanical ingredients for their healing properties. Better yet, I make sure they’re used at a concentration that actually gives results. Case in point: The Cucumber Orchid Crème you loved so much is truly state-of-the-art. It’s made tetropeptide and oligopeptides for cellular rejuvenation, plus a high level of panthenol and phytantriol to provide major hydration and softness. And yes, we’re working on more skincare now. So keep an eye out!

ISSUE: Peanut Allergy

December 10, 2008 | Special Cases

Dear Philip,

I saw the recommendation for your products in the November issue of Vogue and am extremely interested in them. I’m also, however, fatally allergic to peanuts and I see that at least one of your products is made with peanut oil. I’d like to know more about where and how your products are manufactured. Are the products with peanut oil made in the same facility and on the same equipment as products that don’t contain peanut oil?

I sympathize with you — having a severe allergy is such a challenge. While it’s true that all of our products are manufactured in facilities where peanut byproducts are used, our equipment is meticulously sanitized. There are a few products I can recommend to you with confidence, including Russian Amber Imperial Shampoo, Katira Masque and Scent of Santa Fe. You must be familiar with patch testing: I always recommend that an allergy sufferer try a one-inch patch test on her inner arm and check for a reaction with a 24 hours. And if you have any doubts, check with your doctor first.

ISSUE: Dandruff and Sebhorric dermatitis

November 12, 2008 | Special Cases

Hi Philip,

I’ve struggled with an itchy, scaly scalp for quite some time and tried every over-the-counter product and prescription-based shampoo you can imagine. This week, I made my annual visit to the dermatologist for more of the same, as things have not improved for me. But then I spoke to a friend who recommended that I try your Anti-Flake Shampoo. She also gave me a sample of your Peppermint & Avocado Shampoo to try. I must say that with one application of both products, I’m hooked. The peppermint shampoo removed all the scaly build-up and the Anti-Flake shampoo finished the process by soothing my scalp. I’ve never had results like this.

Should I use the two products weekly until I get my problem under control, and then switch to using it once a month? Also, I like all of the wonderful botanical ingredients found in your products.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Many Thanks,
Nora

Dear Nora,

Thanks for taking the time to write to me. I’m so, so happy that the products are doing the trick. I do think that you might want to stay on a weekly regimen of the Peppermint & Avocado Shampoo and Anti-Flake for a bit and see how it goes. Without seeing your scalp, it’s hard to say – if it’s a chronic problem, you may need to use the products continuously to keep things under control. I make other scalp-soothing products, too: Scent of Santa Fe Shampoo is rich in chlorophyll and makes a great compliment to Anti-Flake and Peppermint and leaves your hair so silky…

That said, if you have an extreme flare-up of dandruff or seborrhic dermatitis, here’s my general rule: Start with one to two applications of Peppermint & Avocado Shampoo, leave it on your scalp for 3-5 minutes; then use the Anti-Flake and leave IT on for 3-5 minutes more before rinsing. I made all of these products for my friends with itchy, dry scalps, and each formula is made of the finest natural soothers in the all the land!

ISSUE: Post-Chemotherapy hair

November 12, 2008 | Special Cases

Dear Philip,

It’s been 2 years since I had chemotherapy, and my hair has grown back very, very dry and very, very curly. I’ve been using Phyto products but I made the mistake of having my hair processed with highlights and lowlights and now it’s like dry straw. Can you help?

Mary Dorsey

Dear Mary,

Yes. Your hair may not go back to the way it was before, but it can still look healthy and beautiful as long as you give back what it needs. I always tell clients that taking care of any type of hair – since hair is made of dead cells – is a lot like preserving wood or leather. You have to use the right kind of moisture, consistently, to keep it supple and shiny. In your case, that means using treatments with strengthening amino acids and hydrators that will address damage, soften the texture of your hair, and give it a great, clean finish that isn’t heavy and greasy or light and flyaway. There are a couple of approaches you could take:

1) On an everyday basis, use a super-nourishing cleanser with amino acids like Russian Amber Imperial Shampoo or my White Truffle Shampoo and Conditioner: I designed both specifically to transform dull, parched, damaged hair. (If you’re local in L.A. you can always call us at the Ava Center for a professional treatment: 310.843.9915.)

2) For an immediate, astounding quick fix, do an oil treatment: To start, apply my Rejuvenating Oil to your hair, heat it with a blowdryer and let it sit for a bit. Then use the Peppermint & Avocado Shampoo: Work it into your scalp, add water, and gradually work the lather through to the ends. From there, rinse and apply my ultra-conditioning, amino-acid-packed Russian Amber Imperial Shampoo: That’s when you’ll feel your hair texture start to change under your fingertips.

3) For extra credit, my new Katira Masque offers a rare type of moisture: It leaves wiry hair soft, fluffy and manageable, and makes a blowout extra smooth and straight. (Rub a dollop of Katira in your hair; comb it through; let it sit for 2 hours till it dries; rinse, rinse, rinse; and voilà: Your hair will be youthful and lush again!)

4) The pH Balancing Rinse would be great for you, too. It seals the cuticle so you get gorgeously defined ringlets.